There are many ways to create a DIY glitter accent wall. You can go the incredibly messy routes: Use a blow on dry glitter or apply a liquid spray to a dry wall. Yes, you can buy special glitter paint, with glitter made from crushed granite, but that’s not DIY. Using paint additives, you can make your own DIY glitter paint. It’ll still be messy, but you will have a more even paint-to-glitter ratio in the end.

What You Need to Know When Mixing and Applying Glitter Paint

Evenly disperse the glitter in the paint, so the consistency of glitter will be balanced across the wall once applied. Incorrect mixing leads to uneven distribution of glitter, transforming the wall into an eyesore. The amount of glitter needed comes down to personal preference.

This method will allow you to find the perfect ratio of glitter and paint. You should test your ratio on a small surface before you go crazy with the painting. Here are a few tips for successful mixture and application to make your own glitter paint:

1. Choose the Correct Glitter

When mixing glitter into paint, you should use glitter specifically made for painting application. Avoid craft glitter because it won’t mix evenly and will chip off the wall once it’s dried. Choose paint glitter, which is manufactured to be mixed with paint. It’s less likely to settle and won’t flake off once the paint dries.

When mixing glitter into paint, you should use glitter specifically made for painting application. Avoid craft glitter because it won’t mix evenly and will chip off the wall once it’s dried. Choose paint glitter, which is manufactured to be mixed with paint. It’s less likely to settle and won’t flake off once the paint dries.

2. Mix Glitter and Paint in Small Batches

When you make a bigger mixture of glitter paint, it’ll take hours before you go through the whole batch. The glitter will have settled at the bottom of the batch, making the application uneven. By focusing on smaller batches, you can adjust the ratio of paint and glitter until you are satisfied. Give it time to dry so you’ll be able to judge the appearance. Once you have your chosen ratio, stir up your paint and get started by pouring a small amount of paint into a container. Then add the appropriate ratio of glitter.

3. Use a Mixing Attachment on a Drill

An industrial paint mixer is the idea solution, but the next best thing is a mixing attachment on a drill. Your paint should be mixed thoroughly first, with glitter poured in small increments. Mix as you pour in the glitter. Every few minutes, you’ll want to remix the glitter to keep it from settling.

4. When Painting, Apply in Sections and Layers

Focus on painting in four-foot by four-foot areas. Use rolling in and cutting-in techniques to apply paint evenly, using a wet edge to move back into when necessary. Avoid overlapping.

Apply a base coat and let it dry. Your base coat must be completely dry before you add another layer, which may take a few hours. Continue to mix your glitter paint so that it doesn’t settle. Make and apply more small batches as needed until you are satisfied with the result.

5. Apply a Faux Finishing Glaze to Make the Glitter Pop

Sometimes the glitter will not stand out as strongly as you imagined. Use a transparent glaze to allow the light in the room to enhance the sparkle of the glitter. If glitter paint is applied with a glaze, it proves easier to replace when you grow tired of the look.

Bonus Cost-Effective Tip

Depending on the size of your home, the cost of this project can increase rapidly. You can reduce the cost of this project with a relatively unknown method. Your local home improvement store may have tax-free and discounted construction and building materials. Not every hardware store has this option though, so make sure to call and ask about their options before making a special trip to the store.

Glitter Paint Is for Every Kid, Big or Small

This DIY look will add sparkle to your home, whether the glitter accent wall is for a kid’s room or for your own inner child. It’s a truly unique idea meant for an extraordinary room.

Continue the theme throughout the house by adding a border or small accents to any room, especially to formalize a dining room. Let your family and guests find the magic in your home. What room needs a little sparkle and bling?

Author : Megan Wild from yourwildhome.com

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Here are the supplies that are needed

• Hobby Knife
• Floor Paint  in two contrasting colors
• Painters Tape for delicate surfaces
• Small Roller
• Paint Brush
• Drop Cloth
• Artist Brush
• Heavy material for stencil
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Level

Step 1:  First, chose two colors that you will use to create this look.   You’ll want to start by painting your stair risers with the lighter of the two colors, in this case, white.  Apply two coats if necessary and allow the last coat to dry for at least 24 hours.

Creating the pattern with painters tape

The easiest and most time efficient way to create a chevron pattern is by using 3” painters tape.

Step 2: Draw the pattern out first with a ruler and make sure it’s even.

 Step 3 : Following your pencil lines, tape off the inside of the triangle.

Step 3: Paint over the tape with your roller. Make sure you don’t overload the roller. If you do the paint will bleed through the tape.
Step 4: Remove your tape, and touch up any imperfections with your artist brush.
If you are feeling crafty you can make a stencil!

Creating the pattern using a stencil :

Step 2: In this project, we chose a chevron design, but you can make your stencil in whatever kind of pattern you like (Polka dots, stripes, checkers, diamonds, etc.).  You can also purchase ready-made stencils in the paint department of your local Home Depot.
– Draw the pattern onto any heavy material to make your stencil. Cardboard, card stock, or heavy plastic are just a few materials that would work. Then cut out your pattern using a hobby knife and ruler.

Step 3: Trace your chevron pattern on to the stair risers.

Step 4: Paint on your chevron pattern.

• Use painter’s tape to block off the traced area.  Put the tape on the outside of the traced area so that you can paint within the lines of the pattern. Trim off any excess tape with a hobby knife. After you are satisfied with your pattern, roll on your desired color.Repeat the above steps for each stair until your project is complete!Chevrons can go anywhere, not just stairs. You can paint them on the front of a dresser, on a headboard or even paint them on a wall as an accent wall. The possibilities are endless!Go forth with this knowledge and decorate!
• Author: Christine  from Home depot

The post How To Paint Stairs and Make a Chevron Pattern On Stair Risers appeared first on Decozilla.

Based on my previous outdoor chair/sofa projects, I knew I would have to select the cushions first and then design the frame around its measurements. So I went online and found these great Squier cushions on sale from Target ($90 for set of 2). That gave me the basic measurements to determine the seat width and height for the chair.

• Cushion Seat Dimensions: 7.5″ T x 24.0 ” D x 22.0 ” W
• Cushion Back Dimensions: 5.75 ” T x 19.25 ” D x 22.0 ” W

From there, I drew out my plan on a piece of scrap paper. Side note, I really wish I knew how to use Sketch Up to draw a plan – putting that on my to-do list to learn someday soon :). Here’s a version drawn up in PowerPoint.

Then I picked up the lumber I would need, it’s mostly cedar except for the 4″x4″s which are Douglas Fir. I would have purchased cedar for those as well, but the lumber was a little sparse and rough that day at the big-box hardware store. Truth be told, I am just as much a fan of Doug Fir for outdoor furniture, it much less expensive and wears really well outdoors (rot resistant).  Here was my shopping list:

• 2 – 4″x4″x8′
• 2 – 2″x4″x8′
• 2 – 5/4″x4″x8′
• 1 – 2″x2″x8′
• 1 – 2″x6″8′
• Exterior screws
• 5″ hex head decking screws (FastenMaster HeadLok)
• Gorilla wood glue

And my cut list:

• 4 – 4″x4″ pieces cut with one end at a 45 degree angle to 24″ length (long side) – legs
• 2 – 4″x4″ pieces cut with two ends at 45 degree angle to 33″ length (long side) – armrests that connect the legs
• 3 – 2″x4″ pieces cut to 22″ length (or same as seat cushion width) – seat front/rear and back brace
• 2 – 2″x2″ pieces cut to 22″ length (or same as seat cushion width) – seat support
• 2 – 2″x4″ pieces cut to 26″ length – seat sides
• 6 – 5/4″x4″ pieces cut to 26″ length – seat top
• 2 – 2″x4″ pieces cut to 26″ length (or same as back cushion height plus seat cushion depth) – seat back
• 4 – 2″x6″ pieces cut to 15″ length – seat back
• 1 – 2″x4″ piece cut to 15″ length – seat back

I started by predrilling for the pocket hole screws I would need in the 4″x4″ armrests (hidden on the short side underneath). Then I assembled the arm/leg pieces by matching up the 45 degree angles. Once they were aligned, I glued and clamped. Then I came back once those were dry a day later and inserted 3.5″ exterior screws into the pocket holes underneath. I find it easier to screw them together after they are held tight by the wood glue. Then, I drilled pocket holes and screwed in the 26″ long 2″x4″ pieces between the legs, so that the top of the 2″x4″ would be 12″ off the ground. This establishes the seat height at 12″ high.

Then, I assembled the seats by lining up the 5/4″x4″ cut pieces and the overlaying the 22″ long 2″x2″s across the ends. I screwed them in from the bottom so that the 2x2s will not show. Then I aligned the 22″ long 2″x4″ end pieces and connected them by screwing them to the 2″x2″s as well.

To make the seat back I lined up all of the 15″ long 2″x6″ pieces and the one 2″x4″ and aligned them across the 26″ 2″x4″s. I glued them together and clamped until dry. It would probably be a good idea to come back and screw it together (probably using more of the 5″ hex head deck screws for an industrial look) – however it was held together well by the glue so I skipped that step for now :).

Here are the pieces I now have to assemble into a chair.

From there I took the seat the I just made and connected it to the arm/leg frames at 12″ high from the ground. I used glue and 5″ decking screws (hex head) to connect them from the outside of the frame.

Next once the seat was in place, I used the seat cushion to establish where the seat back would connect to the seat and tilted it at about a 12 degree angle (until it was comfortably reclined). I then used pocket hole screws to connect the back brace for the seat back to rest against. And I put in the seat back, turned the chair upside-down and screwed it in from the bottom.

Here’s what DIY outdoor chair looked like once it was all assembled.

Finally, I put in the cushions and here you have it!

I recognize it’s hard to follow plans that are mostly narrative. I hope in the future to be able to illustrate some of these. In the meantime, I hope you found this DIY project helpful – enjoy the summer! Please like & share

Cheers!

Author: Susan from graytablehome.com

The post DIY Modern Outdoor Chair – Plan and a Tutorial ! appeared first on Decozilla.

Materials

• 20-40 bricks (multiples of four) for each stand
• 1 – 16 x 16 brick paver for each stand
• large pottery containers filled with plants

Directions

Notice in the materials I did not mention mortar. I chose to simply stack the bricks. That way I can change the height or placement of the pillars fairly easily if I feel like a change.

Decide how many plant stands you will be making and where you will be placing them. For our patio, I constructed five stands with varying heights. Wherever you place them should be level. If it’s on a patio, it’s probably level already. If you will be building on the ground, make sure it’s flat and compacted.

1) It’s time to start building. Place four bricks to form a square. Make sure the bricks are placed snugly together leaving a square hole in the center.

2) Place your second row of bricks on top of the first, changing the direction of the bricks. The center of each brick in the second row is above the space between two bricks in the first row. (Look at the pictures, it will make more sense.)

3) Continue stacking the bricks in alternating directions until your pillar reaches the desired height. This pillar is five rows high, but I made others that are ten rows. Once you have finished stacking your bricks, center and place a 16-inch square paver on the bricks. Place your pottery on the stand and enjoy.

You could use your brick plant stands for containers that hold herbs, flowers, or other plants that will add color and life to your patio and yard.

The post How To Build a DIY Brick Plant Stand appeared first on Decozilla.

Bench/pew:

You can remove single side railing of the crib and then make use of it like a bench or pew. This will be very innovative and nice when you place it in your garden or patio, as its cost effective and only of the easiest furniture to make instantly with old cribs.

Bookrack:

You can make use of a single crib railing as a book rack in your living room or in the reading room, as your guests can make use of the latest magazines or newspapers during their waiting time.

Clothes drying rack:

This is one of the useful and fabulous ideas to make use of a crib railing effectively. You can just attach it metal chains and pull it forward when required. This will be one of the comfortable ways to dry clothes during winter or raining season.

Kids desk:

How cool is this remodel idea of turning their own cribs into a writing desk that will very much fascinate them. You can replace the cot with a blackboard so that they can also use it for writing and learning.

Towel storage:

You can make use of the crib rails to hang towels in your bathroom or also use it for storing shawls, scarf, etc. this will keep them organized and will be easy to grab too. Also you can paint them in various attractive colors and designs to make it look stylish.

Garden trellises:

If you are an ardent fan of gardening then you will love this idea as you can just slant and join them together like a tent and use it as a garden trellises for all the slender climbers in your garden.

Home office desk:

Mount a glass on top of the crib and you can use it as a modern home office work desk with the single side railing modified and attached as a shelf.

The post Crib Repurpose Ideas – A DIY Project appeared first on Decozilla.

Just throw a bedspread, rug, or any other cover over your sofa to give them a new look and to protect the sofa from getting dirty and damaged.

White sofas can be become dirty so easily and if you feel that it is very simple, you can add some more colors to it to bring on that look, which you feel is wonderful.

This lovely white sofa is decorated with a mild multiple colored rug that is sewed in the perfect size to fit the sofa, and the pillow throws are also matched accordingly. The choice of light colors adds so much elegance to the sofa.

This outdoor sofa is just a simple pattern and t make it look more beautiful and grand, a lovely beige small carpet kind of rug with hanging thread border is just placed over it to add style to the existing looks and additionally many pillow throws of a contrasting red stripped model is placed on the sofa to add more looks. This makes the outdoor sofa look so cool isn’t it?

If you are capable of sewing your own materials, then you can try something different like this. The sofa cushions are covered with beautiful blue and green colored cover and the lovely pleats of pink at the bottom of the sofa make it look cute and beautiful. The cushion pillows are designed in various contrasting colors to make it look bright and colorful. Colors always add beauty and this is no exception.

This beautiful vintage peach satin sofa slipcover looks very pretty and the beautiful sewing of the entire cover adds so much charm to it. The circular cushion pillow is designed in combination of beige and peach colors with lovely frills around it, and the other rectangular cushion is of beige color with lovely lace frills at the sides and cute roses attached on top of the pillow to make it more pretty.

This is a very formal and a simple design sofa throw that is of coffee brown color that contrastingly matches the sofa and the walls of the room. This looks very elegant and yet good-looking.

The post Beautiful Sofa Throws And Slipcovers ideas appeared first on Decozilla.

before:

i used a high-gloss paint to contrast with the flat look paint that we used as the base coat:

initially, the room  looked like this:

The post DIY Stencil Wall Design Idea – How to Stencil an Accent Wall appeared first on Decozilla.

Easy Patterned Wallpaper  Look Using Paint

Truth be told, I added a pattern for the small space behind the refreshment center never thinking that it would be permanent. The basement just seemed to be getting a bit too serious and I thought a small pop of unexpected whimsy would be fun. So I started playing around with some shapes….you know…..just to see. Then, if I like a pattern, I could buy real wallpaper.

How to Create Patterned Wallpaper Using Paint

And now, I may leave the experimental “paper,” even though it’s quirky and far from perfect. If you’d like to give it a go in one of your spaces, here’s how to make it happen.

Step One: Wall Prep

• To get the ball rolling, sand the wall. The sandpaper grit depends on how bumpy the wall is, but it really helps to get the wall as smooth as possible.
• Then remove the dust using a tack cloth.
• Tack cloths are a bit sticky and pick up this very fine dust better than a vacuum. These are usually found in the paint section at the home improvement store.
• Tape off the area you wish to paint.
• And then apply the base coat of paint.
• When the base coat is thoroughly dry, you’re ready to add the pattern.

Step Two: Choose a Pattern

• Any item that will hold its shape while applying paint can be used, so let your imagination run wild.
• I considered a good many things, like sponges and hand brooms, but settled on circles.
• I think I was feeling all bubbly that day.
• Anyhoo, the item of choice for this pattern is a solo cup.

Step Three: Dip the Top

• Basically, all you do is pour some paint onto a flat surface, like a plastic paper plate, and then dip the rim of the cup into the paint.
• It’s sort of like salting the top of a margarita glass.
• Heavier paint will make thicker circles and add a bit of texture.
• Less paint will do the opposite.

Step Four: Stick and Twist

• To make the circle, touch the cup to the area, lightly press and then twist the cup in place to the right and left.
• My base coat and circle colors are both semigloss and the cup really wanted to slide. So heads up that flat latex paint might be easier to work with if you want a clean and crisp line.

Additional Tips:

• So remember about the paint finish when deciding on colors. I will tell you that my wall has some amazing texture from the black semigloss. You might consider a test using a flat base coat with semigloss for the pattern. The texture on my wall may not be readily visible in the photos, but adds good depth in real life.
• I went over my wall once and then let it dry. Then I went over it again in areas that needed repair. It just takes some trial and error.
• And also remember that no wall is perfectly plumb. If you want a precise pattern that looks more printed, you’ll have to set up a grid on the wall.
• This is easily done by using a level and marking off lines or quadrants with a light pencil or tape.
• Now that I have decided to keep the wall, I wish I had taken the time to create the quadrants. This pattern is a little floaty for my traditional taste, but will be ok in this particular area. ……at least for now.

The cabinet is an antique replica that I refinished to use as a bar or refreshment center. This is the natural color of the wood with only one eco-friendly product used to seal and protect. I’ll write a post about how to clean and seal wood such as this very soon. If you are keeping tabs, it’s the eleventh piece I’ve refinished for this challenge.

But for now, let’s celebrate patterned wallpaper on the cheap.

Keep it today….change it tomorrow.

Gotta love it.

To keep this idea for later or share with friends, please PIN the image .

original idea source : craftedbythehunts.com

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How to Renovate vintage shelving unit :

The first step was to remove the top panel and also the two sliding glass inserts to make things easier for painting. The top came off easily after removing four small screws and the glass just lifted out.

The color we chose was Black F319 80 – 100% acrylic enamel in an eggshell finish from Benjamin Moore. It is the same paint we used for the Entryway Bench we built a while back and and is quite durable with a beautiful finish.

No need to prime here as this paint goes on thick and we also gave it three coats in total. It is also a very fast drying so we were able to apply all three coats in a matter of one night.

You can see how worn and stained the original finish was on the top of the unit. Originally we were going to try to restore it by sanding and re-staining the wood but in the end painting was the best option and we’re quite happy with the results.

Here it is all finished. We can’t wait to move it upstairs into the hallway and see how it fits in!

The post Vintage Shelving Unit Makeover appeared first on Decozilla.

How to Get DIY Faux Concrete-Look Flooring With Paint

For the flooring we actually ended up mixing a combination of three different paint colors (black, white and a grey/green) to achieve the color that we wanted. We thought this was a better idea than buying a bunch of paint and finding out they weren’t the right colors. This way we could mix and match. Plus with the “concrete look” we are hoping to create, we’ll need three shades of grey (one dark, one medium and one light) and mixing the paint ourselves just seemed to make sense.

Our bathroom makeover has begun! We’re starting with a clean slate by priming the walls and floors and going from there.

We’re using Benjamin Moore “Super Spec” paint in latex for the walls and Stix waterborne binding primer for the floors. Some of you had concerns about painting tiles but we did our research and decided to take the leap! The tiling in our bathroom is a very cheap vinyl stick-on tile so it won’t scratch or chip as much as ceramic tiling, and I think the end result will turn out beautifully!

Now on to the flooring! If you can see in the close-up of our tiles, they are pretty textured and flat, which makes them perfect for painting!

First we applied the base coat of the dark grey. Since concrete is more of a raw look, we used a brush to apply the paint then used a paint roller to hide the brush strokes, while rolling the paint roller in different directions for a more uneven and natural look (see above pic).

Once that was all dry and set we used the medium color grey (one shade lighter than the base) and brushed on the new paint lightly in sections.

Once the paint was brushed on, we used a cloth “sponge” off the new paint and reveal the lower layer and create some depth to the flooring.

Here is the flooring with two layers… it’s getting there! We just need to apply one more layer (the lightest grey) and we’ll have ourselves a concrete look vinyl flooring. We won’t be showing you the end result yet though, we’re saving that for the bathroom “AFTER” reveal which we’ll be doing later this week! It’ll be a very drastic change!

Here is a few examples from web that inspired me to get the DIY Concrete-Look Flooring for our bathroom

As you can see i really like grey color for bathroom floor tiles and what is your favorite flooring color?

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